Raggejavreraige – the Arctic cave

A few days back while we were roaming in the Tysfjord region just south of Lofoten, the forecast predicted two days of heavy rain. Daniel, Jon and I opted for an indoor activity somewhat out of the ordinary. We were moored up in the settlement of Musken, located about five hours´ sailing time into the Hellemofjord. Barba moored in Musken, one of very few mainland communities in Norway with no road connection. By Daniel Hug.  The indoor activity in question […]

The First Leg South: Hammerfest to Tysfjord

It´s been a couple of weeks now since we arrived back on mainland Norway in Hammerfest, where we nurtured ourselves and Barba back to health following our escapades in the ice around Svalbard. Ivan flew out from Hammerfest as planned with hiking in Siberia as his next endeavor. And Terry, Jon, Daniel and I fortunately still have about a 1,000-nautical-mile sail ahead of us back to Stavanger, with the spectacular Norwegian coast and Barba at our disposal. Terry picking cloudberries as […]

Svalbard, the postscript

As Terry beautifully described it in the previous post, the joy is not always in the journey. Looking back, leaving the Norwegian mainland back on July 16th seems very distant now with all we have seen and experienced since we watched the mainland disappear on the horizon. We had already been sailing from Stavanger for a month at that point, but leaving the mainland in Tromsø marked the true beginning. This is what we had worked for after half a […]

The Joy’s Not Always in the Journey

Now that we’re peacefully moored up in port back on the mainland in Hammerfest – the promised land of shore power, floating docks, fresh fruit and veg and the almighty internet! – I’m ready to write about the whole crossing. Now that the whole getting here part is part of the past…. The crossing wasn’t a whole lot of fun, but I don’t think any of us really expected it to be. And despite some uncomfortable sailing, there were definitely […]

Leaving Svalbard

It’s 4:30AM and I’ve just finished my last watch before we head offshore and slowly sail away from the main Svalbard archipelago toward Bjornoya (Bear Island), about 180 nautical miles away. We made the decision to head out after dinner and after consulting the weather and wind maps. Conditions aren’t ideal, with some fairly strong headwinds coming our way soon. But there are no storms a-brewing, either.

On the technical side

It´s nighttime in Svalbard. Since just a few days, the midnight sun is no longer with us so there´s a sort of twilight now. The temperature outside reads 2,7 degrees C, visibility is down to 50 meters in the fog and the water is littered with ice. Barba is threading her way South with Jon at the helm.

True North at N 81°09.098’

I’m writing from a quiet Barba salon, one of those rare moments when you’re all alone on the boat when you’re actually not all alone on the boat. Everyone is still knocked out cold in their cabins after getting to bed quite late again last night. It’s hardly early morning, though. Rather, approaching lunchtime in the “real world.” But the Barba crew remains on their own times and terms in this surreal place and season we´re sailing through. I cherish […]

Barba Friday

We hardly keep track of the days of the week. But Friday is an exception. It´s the the most sacred day on Barba. And to nobody´s surprise, we call it Barba Friday. It´s always associated with a nature performance as well as an extra ration of rum. There were the Friday pilot whales in Andenes back on the mainland, the walrus colony south of Ny-Ålesund and, a good week ago, about 70 or so Beluga whales that came within 30 […]

Fleeting Arctic Moments

Yesterday, I was making tuna salad for lunch in the Barba galley where we were anchored in Kinnvika on the west side of Nordaustlandet when I decided to open the window to air out the steam from the kettle, simultaneously taking a glance toward the far shore.

The great wanderer

Late at night, out of nowhere he appeared. The polar bear, or the great wanderer as the Inuit call him. The first sighting was one of many milestones on our journey, and a definitive highlight so far.