Sailing, Mosken and seals

Having made it to Bodø, we had covered most of the distance between the port of Stavanger down south, and the whales up north. Heidi flew back home to Finland to continue her studies, and we received reinforcements from further east. Svetlana Romantsova came flying in from Moscow, and Barba was to be her first time out sailing. She is a professional photographer, and knows Kari from the kite surfing circus.

Featured image – A grey seal cub at the Mosken island. By Lars Korvald. 

Kari  at the helm during the crossing of the Vest Fjord. 

Our plan next was to use a good week sailing the most famous part of the Norwegian coastline, the Lofoten Islands. Crossing the Vest-fjord, we had 15 knots of wind from the east, making it a very pleasant experience in the light of a full moon. Svetlana spent most of the time up on deck, witnessing Northern lights for the first time in her life.

Svetlana Romantsova at Værøy. Photo by Kari Schibevaag

During the week in Lofoten we had two nights in Værøy where we went hiking, paragliding and had the time to relax.  To the east we could see the Island Mosken. It´s a small steep isolated island with no port. Usually you can´t get to it by boat, but as an old fisherman told us “this was the quietest October he had ever experienced”.

Mosken island bathing in the sun, seen from Værøy. By Svetlana Romantsova

I used the late evening to study the island. On the southern side there was something that resembled an anchorage, which also looked promising with regards to providing cover from the strongest coastal current in Norway, the Moskenesstraumen. It can run at 10 knots or more and needs to be handled with respect.

Barba at anchor. By Lars Korvald

We dropped the anchor at the south side of Mosken. The distance to shore was measured with a laser range finder, and two additional ropes were tied ashore to increase chances that Barba would be there when we came back from the hike. Once in the bay we were met by horrendous screams. The guilty ones were two well fed, yet hungry seal pups shouting for their mothers. There was a third one sleeping. The screaming ones showed no fear of humans, and it was probably the first time they could study the species up close.

“No hill is to steep, but some hills are best climbed relaxing in a backpack”. Quote from Truls, as he gets some assistance up the most difficult parts of the climb. By Andreas

For Svetlana it was a special day indeed. It was her birthday, and our gift was a 300 meter grass covered slope, where falling could have unpleasant consequences. We made it almost all the way to the top of the 385 meter peak. Our progress was prevented by a vertical wall. At the foretop Fugleheia, we witnessed the Lofoten peninsula and the Buvaagen anchorage where we planned to spend the night.

300 meters or so above sea level. With the Lofoten peninsula visible in the background. By Svetlana Romantsova

The following day Truls and his followers went ashore for a hike, whereas I went for a dive, Curious to see what kind of life the current would bring. Late in the evening we arrived in Flakstad, where Kari has her container house on the beach, and runs a kite surfing school when she is not out on adventures with her companion Truls.

At anchor in Buvaagen. By Svetlana Romantsova

We will spend a couple of days here chilling out before our final week of sailing to Tromsø.  As for not making it to the top of Mosken, I was rather pleased about it all. It only means I have to go one day.

Andreas

The result of about 3 weeks of gentle sailing up the coast. 

BEHIND THE SCENES

A short edit from the life onboard Barba, by onboard photographer Svetlana Romantsova. 

Reunited with our good boat friend Frederic and his beautiful steel boat Eliot in Bodø. 1 year since the last time, so not that long in sailing terms. By Lars Korvald

Northern Lights at Værøy. By Svetlana Romantsova

Birthday party in Buvaagen, at anchor, and outside phone reception. As good as it gets. 

Checking the compass course, time and depth while carefully approaching the Moskenes current. 

Andreas and Lars assessing the route at Moskenes. The highest peak seems to be out of reach. By Svetlana Romantsova

Paddling ashore at Mosken. By Lars Korvald

Kari at the helm, and sailor Lars enjoying his daily ration of soup. Somewhere along the North-West coast of Lofoten. 

Barba at Flakstad in Lofoten. Up until now, the only sailing boats we have come across have been in port. 

Drone footage of Mosken, with Barba at anchor in lover right corner. Lofoten visible in the background. By Lars Korvald